A sewing milestone! Custom made Jeans!
For me, I wear jeans frequently. I love a good pair of jeans that fit. Finding a pair that fits properly has been a challenge. As I’ve been moving along in my sewing journey over these past few years, a milestone signpost has been making my own jeans.
I’m also a perfectionist and if I’m making something I want it to be custom handmade, I don’t want them to be “Becky-home-ec-y”. Sorry to all Beckys out there. But jeans have flat felled seams (or faux-flat felled seams), they have rivets and they have tack buttons for the button.
I do have plans to go on a jeans making retreat this summer (assuming covid19 doesn’t cause it to be cancelled) to learn from an expert, but I decided I wanted to make a pair (or two) myself first, so that I’m not going in as a total newbie.
So I, of course, turned to the quintiessential Ginger Jeans Pattern — the mid-rise version and made my first pair.
The instructions were fantastic and I definitely realized I’ve outgrown my basic machine I’ve had for a few years. More on that later. This is such a standard in the sewing community that I have little to say that’s novel. There are so many reviews and tips or tricks that I was solidly set up making my first pair without an instructor to guide me. I saw one tip that suggested that having >1″ negative ease is useful because the fabric is stretchy. I followed that advice when I chose my size and I’m glad I did. The only adjustment I felt was necessary was taking in the center back seam. I took about 3/4 on both sides tapering to nothing where the yoke meets the pant seam. I was able to finagle the waistband so didn’t need to recut that, thankfully.
Pattern: Closet Case Patterns Ginger Mid-Rise Jeans Pattern
Size: My measurements put me in the size 12 range but because I don’t want the jeans to be baggy when they stretch out, I sized down to a 10. I’m SO glad I did. I’ve been wearing them regularly this past week and they have relaxed as expected but they don’t look baggy.
Fabric: Stretch denim from Vogue Fabrics. I got this fabric at Sew Expo 2020 and it was wrapped as 2 yards in their precut sections. It’s actual length as about 2.25 yards and I have a lot left, though not enough for another pair of jeans. Shorts of some sort? Rivets were from KamSnaps, The Jeans button and zipper were both from Joann’s — all were in my stash and ready to be used! Lining is from Mill End in Beaverton, OR.
Things I would change next time: the waistband is not as firm as I’d like. I used a quilting cotton for the inside and I love the look but I think I prefer the strength that comes from heavier weight. However, since I love the surprise inside I’ll try interfacing. I may also curve it more as I wonder if that will tighten it up at the top of the waistband.
Rating: Can a pattern be a TNT after one enormously successful wearable muslin? Because I think it’s going to be! I’m in love. 5/5!
More photos on My instagram!